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Issues with Logitech K350 Keyboards and Mice Dropping Inputs

Novitiate III

Hello everyone,

So I've been dealing with a pretty annoying issue with the logitech K350 series keyboards and mice in one of our branch offices, but not in other branch offices. The keyboard will drop input irregularly but the issues happens consistently. Have purged and reinstalled drivers and tried the logitech unifying software. Swapping the keyboards and mice with wired ones resolves the issue as well.

I was wondering if anyone has run into this kind of issue. From what I can tell it might be wireless interference. We removed the 5G band wireless on the router in the office, but the issue is persisting. 2.4Ghz band is still active. Could it be a bad batch of keyboards, signal interference, too many devices, or something else entirely?




Community Manager Community Manager
Community Manager

I have 2 mice and one of them runs great and the other is constantly doing crazy things. The best I can figure is one of them is much closer to the receiver and has a better line of sight. That one never gives me issues. The other one is about twice the distance from the receiver and on a lower level (keyboard tray, sort of) and it jumps all over the screen, the scroller doesn't do what I want it, too, and it's extremely frustrating. I'm trying to figure out a way to get the receiver closer to see if that helps, but I don't have a lot of options.

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Iron II
Iron II

wired keyboards can introduce supply chain risks from rogue devices. there's a few clones of popular MSFT hardware that looks/feels the same, but with a spoofed hardware ID. Inside: a raspberry pi and 4g modem. Your desktop powers it via USB. 

That's interesting David, thanks for the insight. 🙂

Although I am aware that any USB device has the potential for compromising a device or directly short-circuiting it if a usb device installed with excess capacitors designed to fry them, can happen, I am wondering how common this vector of attacks is. I haven't seen much of these categories of attack. Usually I will more commonly see phishing based attacks as the largest attack vector.

Physical pentesting we may send you swag with compromised hardware inside, wired or wireless wont matter.  Mice or those stupid USB powered fans/lights are my favorite.  Always beware of a free lunch.

Novitiate III

I've got the same issue with piles of PCs and the entire MX series by Logitech.  It seems to be a long running issue with a to-date unresolved root cause spanning almost a decade now.  I broke down and bought some far cheaper Anker devices and the problem went away no matter where I am.  The only similar issue I've found (and resolved) was a power issue wherein the PC disables a USB/port, service (ie - Bluetooth), or app (service) to conserve power or as part of the sleep/hibernate function.

Sorry I don't have better news for you.  😞

Novitiate I

Hey Alex,

I feel your pain with those Logitech K350s. I've had a similar headache before. Here's what I found worked for me:

First off, you've already done the driver dance and tried the Logitech software, which is usually my go-to as well. Kudos for covering the basics. Since swapping to wired solves it, I'm leaning toward wireless interference too. It's a sneaky culprit.

You're on the right track by axing the 5G band, but it seems like something else might still be causing trouble. Have you checked for other nearby devices hogging the airwaves? Sometimes it's surprising what can throw off a wireless signal.

Also, might be worth trying out those K350s in a different environment to see if the issue persists. Andersen Lab helped with some dope tools that totally helped me unque similar issues before. Their mad skills in wireless tech could drop some extra knowledge source.

Hang in there, troubleshooting wireless stuff can be a pain, but you'll crack it.

Rising Star III

So, this might not be related at all, and mine is a Microsoft wireless keyboard/mouse combo, but I found out that I kept having the keyboard and mouse stop working/stuttering badly when I had certain SanDisk USB thumb drives connected to one of the USB A ports on the 2018 MacMini's (at this point, we only have one M1 Mini, so I can't recall if it had the issue as well).

I can move it to a USB C port, or use another type of USB drive, and the problem goes away.

It's not interference, but something that makes the two device incompatible when connected directly to the *same* USB root hub.

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